Smoke and Oil

Jiao Wars: Simplified Case Study of Symbolic Capital

2010-01-23T05:39:00.000-08:00

In China, the currency is the renminbi (人民币), abbreviated RMB. It is literally translated to “the people’s money”—no doubt a fitting name. The renminbi can also be called the yuan (元) or the Chinese yuan, abbreviated CNY. And, colloquially, it is know as the kuai.

In relation to the US dollar, the exchange rate generally lingers just below seven, usually 6.7-6.8 something. To make things simple, we’ll call it seven. One US dollar is equal to seven kuai. For cost of living reference; a can of Coca-Cola is about 2.30 kuai, a hamburger at McDonald’s is about 7 kuai, a decent city bike costs about 250-300kaui, and, in Shanghai, the starting fare for a taxi is 12 kuai.

The most basic denomination is one kuai (yuan, RMB, CNY, etc.). Here in Shanghai, one kuai most frequently takes the form of a silver coin; areas further from the mint still use paper for the one-kuai denomination. One kuai is equal to approximately one dime and a nickel.

The smallest denomination is the Fen (分-pronounced fun, how nice). It’s worth .01 kuai; it takes 100 fen to make one kuai! Up from the Fen you have the Jiao, which is worth one tenth of a kuai—basically the dimes of China. Then you have the wu jiao (five jiao) coin, similar to a fifty-cent piece. And then you have the kuai. The mighty, mighty kuai. ATMs only dispense 100-kuai notes: the largest denomination available and equal to approximately fourteen USD. Other paper denominations of kuai include; five, ten, twenty, and fifty.

The wu jiao and the kuai have relative buying power. You can get a baozi (叉燒包, steamed meat bun) for nine jiao and street breakfast bread for seven jiao. Let’s just say that if I drop a kuai coin or a wu jiao coin on the street, I have the motivation necessary to bend over and pick it up. Not as much can be said for the jiao, and certainly not the fen. A dropped jiao is an abandoned one. A dropped fen is a blessing.

As interesting as Chinese currency is, this is not a critical history of money in China. This is about war. A dirty, scheming war currently being played out in the Zhong Xing building of Shanghai High School International Division. Yes, in the depths of these dark winter months we have diverted ourselves with the duplicity of “jiao wars.”

It began quietly and without warning. A jiao left here, a jiao slipped there. But in the confines of our, well, extremely confined offices, tension are swift to escalate. Already the methods of warfare have advanced. Everyone is hoarding ammunition (collecting those useless jiao) and plotting the next big strike.

Jiao wars arise from the frustration of an accumulating currency that has no worth. Imagine this; you go to buy a coke at Lawson or All Days or Kedi or any countless convenient store chain scattered throughout the city. It costs roughly 2.30 kuai. You pay with three kuai, or perhaps five kuai—ten kuai if you are unfortunate and a poor planner. Your change will include jiao (two, most likely) a wu jiao, and maybe some kuai coins. The change is carelessly thrown into a pocket or a purse, and off you go to conquer the rest of your day.

Throughout the day, the composition of change in your pocket varies, but you will certainly favor the use of, well, useful coins. A kuai here, a wu jiao there. The jiao and the most unfortunate fen will be ignored, perhaps even avoided. When you retreat to the comforts of home after a day in the city and empty your pockets on the kitchen counter, the damage clearly presents itself. You have amassed perhaps ten or fifteen jiao without realizing.

What to do? Use them? But when? And how? For what? Throw them away? No, it’s money—even if slightly worthless. And so begins your unintended collection of jiao and fen. Mine resides in a tin Ritz cracker can, which is now almost full. What to do with all that useless money? Spread it among the poor in Shanghai? Use intention and financial planning to actually spend it over some many months? No, too helpful, too practical. Of course, use that annoying for highly evolved pranks and scheming in sterility of cubical life.

And so the war has been waged.

A few days ago, I returned from class to find the book I am currently reading filled (painstakingly, no doubt) page by page with jiao. One jiao every five or six pages. It’s a five-hundred page book. It took time. It took dedication. Another time, I went to put my hood on and sent jiao flying all over my apartment. Apparently, someone had managed to sneak a handful of jiao into my hood as I said my goodbyes in the office at the end of the day. Jiao have been hidden in desks and dropped in teacups—how atrociously unsanitary! I know as the war continues and as we develop more advanced jiao technologies to keep up with other jiao warriors, the casualties will cumulate and prisoners will be taken.

Although the Jiao Wars are a fun distraction from bleak office life, a few of us began asking rather interesting questions about the social implications of our actions. What does it mean when money is treated with such frivolity? If were in the states and someone loaded a book with dimes, I would certainly keep them and use them throughout consumer interaction. Why not with jiao? Why do we so quickly discard them? Why is our valuation of them so low?

The Jiao Wars represent one of the many areas where I feel slightly imperialist in my interactions with this society and culture. Devaluing money, an important aspect of cultural identity, because you come from another culture where the money is more valuable has distinct implications of power imbalance and social inequality. To make a game out of what we consider useless money (useless only because we live at a standard higher than the vast percentage of Chinese) has great symbolic power resulting from the accumulated symbolic capital, to use Bourdieu's terms, of being a laowai (foreigner) in China.

Of course, as a sociologist, I cannot let a simple office ‘game’ remain simple. It is my job and my passion to investigate all of my social interactions and interpretations with the sociological lens, pulling forth otherwise unnoticed imbalances and systems of inequality. Even in Jiao Wars.

From the depths

2010-01-12T01:35:00.000-08:00

Winter has come on mighty strong here in Shanghai. The freeze of mid-January requires masochistic tendency; forcing oneself to venture out into it, to go about necessary errands that would otherwise be quite leisurely and pleasurable. The inescapable demands of city life do not allow for the hibernation permitted in rural areas during these months when life really should be nothing more than suspended animation. In this dead winter, the sun rises later and disappears into the horizon far too soon. Fewer people linger on sidewalks, at bus stops, outside cafes. There is set determination on the faces of those passing by. Determined to escape from the cold. A hopeless determination because the cold in Shanghai permeates everything.

I am sitting at my kitchen window, drinking a hot cup of tea while watching a stray cat hunt birds on the roof ledge of the neighboring building. Its ragged white fur feigning warmth and survival. Even I can feel the cold air seeping through poorly insulated windows.

Everyone seems to have lost energy. Seems to have lost that essential life force. Seems to have lost the rosy optimism that warm weather brings. A bleakness has surrounded life in the city. Like watching someone scream through a soundproof window. As if there were a mute button for this metropolis. Everything is more lethargic and more urgent, simultaneously.

For me, each day passes with contentment and melancholy in equal parts. I am contented and thankful to have the life I have here in Shanghai, and it is precisely that happiness that makes me sad. It’s a happiness tinged with sadness emanating from transience. I know that I will not live here forever; I know that this life on the other side must end eventually. The spectrum of lives more fulfilling than the one I live now is so narrow, I assume it to be an impossibility to actually achieve.

Each bike or taxi ride into the city—from the depths of the south where I live, to the commercial heaven that is Xujiahue, to the quaint meanderings of French Concession alleys, to the Communist glory that is People’s Square—takes on a new nostalgia, as I recall all the wonderful times I’ve had in this city, all of the life it has given back to me. And the imaginings of future nostalgia, too, as envision what it will feel like in the final few weeks, few days, before I leave Shanghai behind. Perhaps it will feel like betrayal, and I the betrayer, to so simply move on. To so simply accept another city into my life when this one has given me everything I’ve asked for (except, buttermilk biscuits and Dr. Pepper, of course).

But then, I realize, this is a city. A city is no more than the buildings that comprise it, the stone and mortar that comprise those buildings. People come and go and the city makes no protest, feels no sadness, makes no pleads for fidelity. Really, I am dependent on something that has no use for me, and this makes me even sadder than thinking I will, one day, betray it. And, here, I am stuck—feeling that this reticent city is both callous and compassionate. Both heartfelt and heartless.

And, here, I am stuck in the cold days of January, thinking too much about nothing at all. But to share it with you is my pleasure.

Midterms et al.

2009-11-11T17:00:00.000-08:00

We are now in the midst of midterm week. I both enjoy midterm week and despise it; I really like the week break from lesson plans and homework books, but I much less enjoy the mindless proctoring and redundant grading.

This weekend will be the huge Shanghai Alleycat Race. It’s a weekend of group rides, the main alleycat race, some fixie trick competitions, and a mini bike polo tournament. Although it is not the first event of its kind in China (I went to the first in Beijing in May) it is the first of it’s kind in Shanghai. I would like to inset the event flyer and a link to the website here, but due to my incapacitated blogging, I cannot. If you want to check it out, just type “Shanghai Alley Cat” into a google search bar. Believe me, it won’t e difficult to find what you are looking for.

I don’t have to do any proctoring today and I finished all of my grading from yesterday, so it’s a bit like a mini-holiday. Not sure what I am going to do today. Maybe go out to a café to read and write, maybe stay in for a while and watch a movie. I am still waiting for Where the Wild Things Are to reach the DVD stores here in Shanghai. No luck just yet. Probably another few weeks.

I should probably spend some time on my bike if I am going to be ready for the alleycat. Haha. The weather is finally getting cold in Shanghai (although it keep going back and forth) and I am now wondering how much I will ride during the winter. I have never really been a fan of riding in conditions I consider less than ideal, but so far things have been different for me in Shanghai in regards to that.

Check for updates this weekend about Shangahi Alley Cat and watch for a complete write-up from Hangzhou. Some funny stories to be had there.

Testing

2009-11-04T20:26:00.001-08:00

One Two

Let Us Recommence

2009-11-04T20:22:00.000-08:00

I initially stopped blogging because The Great Firewall of China had shut down my access to blogspot. I thought it would be temporary, and I was okay with the notion of a break in blogging – for a little while.

Many a month has now passed, and The Great Firewall is standing stronger than ever. I have, thus, decided to begin blogging again. I do not yet have a VPN, so my access to this site is extremely limited. There will be no photos or videos. Only my words. Daft and boring as they may be. My apologies in advance.

I plan to write one paragraph a day. About anything. This may, in fact be my last year in China. Where to next, I can never be sure. I hope to save for myself the often fleeting memories of fast paced life lived in modernizing China.

I am going on a weekend getaway to Hangzhou starting tomorrow after work, so look for a weekend full of updates on Monday. Nothing like starting a blog and then immediately a backlog as well. Such is life. I am really excited about the weekend, as this will be my first real getaway since coming to China. Going just to go. And most importantly, to enjoy good company.

Zaijian!

The Deal as of Late

2009-05-17T21:10:00.000-07:00

So, the wondrous months of the Olympics are far gone, and the Great Fire Wall has taken many websites hostage once more. YouTube was the first to go and now Blogspot has followed suit. Clearly, this poses a problem for my blogging abilities, since I have to jump through firewall hoops to make even the most simple of posts. Hopefully, this situation is temporary. However, the fate of YouTube (which has been blocked for a of couple months now) does not give rise to very favorable expectations. I will resume normal blogging as soon as possible, and until then I will post dry and photo-less updates about my plight against the Great Fire Wall. Until then . . .

Videos from Seoul

2009-05-11T16:32:00.000-07:00

Some cycling on TV.

The random bus Stephanie and I took to the 'burbs.

An insane taxi.

The lift to Seoul Tower.

10 reasons . . .

2009-05-09T07:21:00.000-07:00

Why I have the cutest most wonderful mother in the world!

10. She can look this excited after a 14 hour flight. Just to see me!

9. She loves Obama.

8. She will do whatever pose I tell her too. "Point at the fish and say 'Ooooo'!"

7. She can see the comedy of life in almost any situation. Here: The Bund Sightseeing Tunnel

6. The loves Coca-Cola in the tiniest size. I don't think she could even finish this one . . .
5. She still bundles up for the cold like a little girl going out to make snow angels.

4. She loves Bill Clinton. And Hillary.

3. She wears braided pig tails.

2. Her drive to explore new worlds, most of which others would pass by.

1. Her smile.

HAPPY MOTHER'S DAY!!!!!

All in a Friday afternoon . . .

2009-05-08T17:56:00.000-07:00

How much can two people accomplish when they have a beautiful Friday afternoon and an enormous city at their fingertips? Brian and I found that the answer was more than our feet or brains could take.

In short: We went to People's Square, walked from there to a pet market, checked out some pets, walked from there to Old Town, bi-passed Old Town very quickly seeing as it is the bane of Shanghai existence (well, first we stopped for a coke at Burger King), walked from the fake Old Town to the real Old Town, checked out the residences and people there, kept walking toward the Huangpu River, hopped on a .5 kuai ferry, ended up in Pudong, found a City Shop and bought nothing, found a Pauliner brew house and ate pretzels, did the river-walk to the Bund Sightseeing Tunnel, took that (yes, I have now taken that ridiculous thing twice) to Puxi, saw a toy that defied the laws of physics, walked to the pedestrian Nanjing Rd, re-evaluated our lives, took the metro to the French Concession, ate dinner at Element Fresh on the terrace, cabbed it home where I proceeded to pass out in my bed.

That is a lot to pack in between 3:30pm and 11pm after a day's work. Here are some photos of the adventure:

The bus stop was in a strange state.

Bicycle anyone?

Thousands of grasshoppers at the pet market. The collective sound was deafening.

I like their style. A lot.

A lion eating the World Financial building and the Jin Mao Tower

Pudong skyline at sunset.

Puxi skyline at sunset.

Please, do not stride the Huangpu River.

The Bund lit up at night.

Ride the bike you love . . .

2009-05-06T23:28:00.000-07:00

Back in April, the New York Times did a piece called "Riding the It Factor" which discussed the rediscovered and newly trendy Dutch Bikes as one style conscious answer to crisis affected budgets within NYC.

The article begins with a sweeping paradox, "The Great Downturn may have its first real status symbol." Yes, a bike as a “status” symbol in an economic crisis. Its the zenith of Marx's fears surrounding commodification and the unstoppable force of capitalist ideology. It is also the opposite of what a bike is meant to be; a tool whose utilization makes basic transportation more efficient (than walking) while reducing the overall impact on the environment. As soon as we begin to see bicycles as another ornament to our commodity centered lives we will have defeated the whole purpose. Bicycle production will become another burden on the environment and another “thing” with which to accessorize ourselves.

The article goes on to question whether, "the urban cyclist, he of the ragtag renegade clothes or shiny spandex, [can] grow up and put on a tie?" This is a clear attempt to standardize, and pull into the mainstream a lifestyle that prides itself in open-mindedness and individuality. It limits the whole of the cycling community to one minuscule archetype, which has been created by the fear and resistance of serious lifestyle change.

Furthermore, it holds "bike culture" (the supposedly pretentious and elitist cycling community that arises in almost all metropolitan areas) responsible as the one thing keeping people from taking a bike, instead of a car, to work. More simply, it claims that it is cyclists and bike enthusiasts themselves who keep cycling limited to its counter-culture status, refusing gain momentum or impact the environment in any significant way. Car culture has been dismissed of all charges against it, and now bike culture is being tried. The article goes on to criticize fixed gear riders in particular, calling the bikes "fashionable” but “impractical.”

The rest of the article puts forth opinion and advice that is more exclusive and susceptible to elitism than the most hard-core fixie-hipster crew peering from oversized Wayfarer shades. By describing the proper outfits for bike riding (totaling thousands of dollars) in the same thought as historically aristocratic sports such as hunting, polo, and sailing, it attempts to complicate and standardize an experience that was initially meant to be simple and an expression of individual tastes and preferences.

There are hundreds of options when it comes to choosing a bike and thousands of individual reasons any particular person chooses the bike they do. This synthesis of possibility and individual preference is what makes your bicycle so unique. As the media tends to do, the Times has set forth a mold which all “sensible” riders should follow, hence crushing the spirit that is at the heart of owning and riding a bicycle.

All in all, this article shows precisely how out of touch the United States is with the workings of the rest of the world. It was right about one thing, in places like the Netherlands or right here in China, “riding a bicycle to work in a suit and tie is as notable an act as drinking a cup of coffee” and in these places there is no bike culture, because “all culture includes the bike.” In a span of ten minutes on Baise Lu, hundreds of people cruise along on their bicycles. They are headed to a wide variety of places, and the bike is simply more practical way to get them there. Riding your bike to work, or to wherever you are headed, should make your life more simple, not more complicated. It should be a freeing experience, not a binding one.

The article concludes with the most asinine of comments stating, “In short, you quickly understand why the Dutch don’t wear helmets — just one more style perk to top it all off.”

This article certainly made some buzz here in China, since biking as transportation is what they do best. As a result, one of the expat sites did a hilarious spoof on the whole thing. To get the full effect, check out the Times photo slide show first (click here) and then check out the one on Shanghaiist (click here).

Ride the bike you love. Love the bike you ride. It should be as simple as that.

Seoul Day 4: Seoul Tower

2009-05-04T22:00:00.001-07:00

Seoul Day 3: Mountain Hike, Temple Lunch, Bathhouse, Fashtion District and Street Food

2009-05-04T21:49:00.001-07:00

Seoul Day 2: Namdaemun Market, Shinsegae Mall, Coex Mall, Art Museum, Random Bus, Suburbs, Dongdeamun Market and Street Food

2009-05-04T21:42:00.001-07:00

Seoul Day 1: National Palace, Art District, Bibimbop, Canal Walk, Bicycles and Riot Police

2009-05-04T21:16:00.000-07:00

The Pirate Ship and The Crazy Fireball

2009-04-26T05:26:00.000-07:00

Sunday in the Park

2009-04-26T03:35:00.000-07:00

This morning, I arose to a spring sun; nascent but continually gaining strength. It beckoned me out of my world of sleep and dreams, taking me by the hand and leading me into the day ahead.

We traveled from the most southern point of Shanghai maps to the most northern, to a large park on the outskirts of the city. As with most things in China, its reality evaded any expectations. This time the reality happened to be pleasant surprise.

All joking aside, the Pirate Ship and Top Buzz were the highlights of the trip.

Shrills emanating from swaying of the Pirate Ship.

We were all a little afraid of this ride. Jokes of losing life or limb were attached to a sinister reality in the backs of our minds. My face says it all . . .

The ride technician.

The end of the ride. With our lives and limbs still in tact, we each walked off the ride platform with a new clarity and purpose for our lives. Nothing like a Chinese carnival ride to remind us of the frangible nature of life; prompting the realization of new hopes, new dreams.

We walked through a forest!! Yes, living in Shanghai, this is big news.

The "panoramic"view of the Huangpu River.

This was both irresistibly adorable and devastatingly dismal. What will happen to you, little ducky?

Bike Polo: Round 2

2009-04-25T05:05:00.000-07:00

The entertainment.

Home-made mallets. Thank the good broomstick that sacrificed itself . . .

Keeping things organized. Kind of.

Yay! Christine came out to play!

Battle scars . . .

Right after I scored a goal for the women's team and said, "Oh, did that go in?!?!"

Making history: First women's team ever in Shanghai Bike Polo League. Rebecca, Ella, Christine.

When Bamboo, Metal, and Flesh Collide: Bike Polo

2009-04-18T06:05:00.000-07:00

The security guard wanted to take our goal markers. Bu hao!

Shanghai Bike Polo League: Debut

2009-04-18T04:43:00.001-07:00

Hand-Made Bicycle (Not for Riding)

2009-04-17T06:27:00.000-07:00

I happened upon this while I was walking down the street in the French Concession this sun-soaked afternoon. Propped on gate ledge, there was one, rather unassuming, man making bicycle after bicycle from small, malleable pieces of wire.

The detail is seriously impressive. The gearing system "works" as does the steering. It even has a mini kickstand.

Friday Afternoon in Century Park

2009-04-17T06:11:00.000-07:00

Having finished all of my midterm grading way ahead of schedule, I headed out to Pudong's Century Park to enjoy the beautiful weather, a good book, and my own company.

Clear blue sky? In Shanghai? Impossible . . .

This couple was making-out under their umbrella. Very sneaky. So is my camera work . . .

Three person bike.

Fun two person bike.

The museum of Science and Technology

My feet on the subway on the way back. :o)

Monday Morning Grading

2009-04-13T03:39:00.000-07:00

With the epic events of this weekend, I put my grading off until this morning knowing that I would have an hour and a half free before my first class. To be honest, I was kind of dreading it. There is a TON of grading coming up this week since it is Midterm time, so I was feeling pretty hesitant about adding even more to it.

Leave it to my 9th graders to make it worth my while, with loads of laughs.

You may or may not remember a little anecdote I shared about a month ago about a student who was trying to describe the color of my ever-changing hair. Finally, he came up with "rotting bananas". I was much more impressed than offended, and we laughed about it for days to come.

Look at what he drew on the back of his quiz. I can only assume its me. . . who else could he possibly know with hair the color of rotting bananas?

Its a kind rendering, because its a rare occasion that I look that bright-eyed in class.

Check out the name on this one. The best part (yes, it gets better) occurred when I jokingly asked the student about it. I showed it to him, pointed at the name, and looked at him inquisitively.

"Oh, shoot!" he exclaimed! "I forgot to write father!"

He had no intention of being God, only The Godfather.

Asians, specifically Koreans, really like to make "cute poo" products. Pens. Stationary. Little figurines. Even candy. One of my students was poo inspired at the end of the quiz, and drew this on the back. Think he was trying to tell me something about my quiz writing skills? Perhaps . . .

A hat. Cake. Flan. You decide.

And We Become

2009-04-12T01:41:00.000-07:00

Silhouettes when our bodies finally go . . .

I awoke this morning, heavy-eyed yet immediately anxious over the events that were about to transpire on this ignored Easter in our tiny corner of the world we call Shanghai.

Where are my running clothes? Did they dry overnight? Don't forget the ipod. Its behind the TV. Should I risk bringing my camera?

After a half-hour of pacing about, putting things in bags, taking them out, putting some more things in, doing a little pantomime of stretching -- it was out the door, camera in hand, hurtling to JinQiao to begin the process of running the longest distance I have ever run.

These oddly white things (not so white anymore) replace what was once a frame, handlebars, wheel set, component group, etc. Running, unlike cycling, is a sport for minimalists.

I refused to brush my hair as I was getting ready (why should I?), so forgive the mess on top of my head. I have found that the smallest amount of coffee supplied caffeine helps me to push through and keep energy on my shorter runs, so I started the morning with a helping of Starbucks.

And there is nothing like McDonald's for pre-race food. Turns out, it treated me allright. I think it was the easily digested egg-protein. Or, that's what I will choose to rationalize this deicison.

Getting to the race was less than fun, and halfway through we began asking ourselves how much a cab could have possibly cost. Certainly not more than the pain of a three line transfer during rush hour (yes, there is a rush hour here on Sunday).

I was honestly astounded once we arrived at the venue (after a comical shuttle bus experience from the metro). There were hundreds, perhaps thousands, of runners of every level rushing about, putting on numbers, making playlists for ipods, taking pictures, trying to find friends. Soon, we too were in the mix; putting on our numbers, exchangeing shirt sizes, taking pictures, storing our things, doing what we could for a warm up.

I was pretending. I look a whole lot less cool when I run . . . more pain, less comedic irony.

The race was scheduled to start at 9:45. We meandered over to the start finish area, and lined up well toward the back. No sense in being trampled by the people who had goals for themselves higher than "not walking". I shuffled through my ipod, looking for that perfect selection for the morning. I ended up choosing the Postal Service. I cued it to the song I wanted to start running to (The District Sleeps Alone Tonight) and waited for some sign that the race had begun.

Faster than I knew, the start gun made its hollow crack, and we were off. Some people moved up, some others fell back, and soon enough everyone settled into their own pace. This was my first run in a large group, and I found something really moving about it. Something cooperative and soothing. A flow of energy existed that was beyond force or control. What was a slew of disorganized individuals soon became one mass moving forward. Always moving forward. Heads bobbing. Feet pit-pattering on the pavement. I look forward to repeating this experience in the future.

I started off well, and the first kilometer went by without much pain at all. My breathing was full and consistent, no cramping in my sides or abdomin, a long steady stride. I felt my heart rate steadily rise, and resisted the temptation to follow along with runners that were clearly faster. However, as the kilometers piled up, my body began to feel the confusion of what I was asking it to do.

Where are the pedals, it whined? Why is the cadence so low and the impact so high? Why is our upper-body jostling all around. For the past four years, my body has been trained for cycling.

Get over it I said. We are doing something new now. Trying it out. Do your best.

It yearned to get kitted-up and hop on a swift and agile bike when we ran past the Specialized store. I fingered my bank card in my back pocket. No, something new, I told it.

Some cramping in my stomach and heavy legs slowed me down, but I kept on running. That was my goal. Run, no matter what. I ran though the water station, doused myself in cool liquid and drank as much as I could without adding to the stomach cramps.

I had lost track of how far I had run. I had no idea how much remained and I was feeling lost in a sea of people passing and rarely passing anyone. I focused on the two feet in front of me; putting one in front of the other, in front of the other. That got me through until the 6k sign, which breathed new life into my legs and lungs. My stride widened, I passed many of those people back. I was on my way to the finish.

And finish I did. Without stopping. Without walking. In decent time. Mission accomplished.

I ended up finishing 212 out of what Nicole thought to be nearly 1,000 women. My time was under my set goal of 50 minutes; roughly 47 or 48.

Best of all, I really enjoyed the experience, and actually look forward to doing another 5k or 8k. Maybe I can even work myself up to a half-marathon. In time, everything in time.

I got a medal! (Okay, everyone got a medal)

Brian and Stephanie

Mmmmm! Delicious, delicious recovery food.

I am now in my bed, just having awoke from a 2-hour nap and eating the rest of that pasta. Best part of exerting yourself -- the rest and recovery after!

Zaijian!

When was the last time . . .

2009-04-11T06:21:00.000-07:00

you took a nap on your bike? In the middle of a busy sidewalk?

For this guy, it was today . . .

Round Two: When was the last time . . .

your seat post was 2 feet long and your wheels measured 4inches?

Again- for this guy, it was today. Must I even mention the color choice . . .

My Commute

2009-04-11T05:46:00.000-07:00

This is the way I ride to work each day, Building Five to Zhong Xing Jr. High Building.

Why are there no students you ask? Because I filmed this on a Saturday morning at 10am. It would be hazardous to film it in a normal day, as the road is full of students with those god-forsaken rolling backpacks.

I apologize for shakey camera work. I am an ametuer, what can I say?

Exam Time!

2009-04-10T17:51:00.001-07:00

Multiple Choice Question:

When is the best time to chop down a tree near a residence?

A) During the day, while people are out and about
B) At eight in the morning on a Saturday morning

Correct Answer: B!

This is what I awoke to this morning, at 8am. I really like the man walking toward peril in the second video, and the workers simply continuing to work.

Well, looks like I will have a productive day, no matter my intentions . . .

Easter Sunday

2009-04-09T03:57:00.000-07:00

As I was sitting in the office this morning, planning the weekend ahead, it was brought to my attention that this weekend is Easter. If no one had told me, I honestly would not have known. Disconnection is one of the many side-effects of living abroad.

So, what will I be doing this Easter Sunday? Hunting for jelly beans? Not quite . . . well, maybe some sport jelly bellies at the end of the 8k I will be competing (read suffering) in right here in Shanghai.

A few people from the office decided that a good way to bring in the warm weather would be to train for and race in the 8k. Some of us have been running for a while, and Denis and Nicole have even completed a marathon (wow!).

I, on the other hand, hardly ever run and mostly despise it. It hurts my knees and makes me break into a rash. Not the most pleasant things in the world. However, there have been conditions present lately to spark an interest (and perhaps even a desire) in running.

Essentially, I have been pretty inactive and eating a lot. Its a rough combination for the waistline and I refuse to buy a bigger pair of pants. Running was an immediate, effective, and relatively cheap fix.

Race registration: 100 kuai
Mizuno running shoes: 300 kuai
Not having to buy bigger pants: Priceless!

Tonight, I ran, literally, to Xuijiahue to pick up my race packet (a shirt and a number).

Another source of inspiration: I have been diligently combing through the works of Japanese author named Haruki Murakami. Most recently, I read his memoir on running, aptly titled, "What I Talk About When I Talk About Running". I read it every night before bed, after setting my alarm for 5:45 to get in a few miles before work. It inspired me to get out there and do my best, and to enjoy running for its cathartic purposes.

After the discussion of Easter began in the office, I thought about what I did last Easter, and I was happy to find some pictures still on my computer from the festivities. My parents and I relived my childhood by going to the Easter Day Parade in Richmond, donning the Easter bonnets that won many awards in the days of my youth.

I hope every one has a Happy Easter, where ever you are and whatever you might be doing. And, please, eat a Cadbury Egg or two for me!

Train to Nanjing

2009-04-06T22:46:00.000-07:00

I was eaten by a dragon . . .

2009-04-06T22:26:00.000-07:00

Old Town Dumplings

2009-04-06T22:06:00.000-07:00

BMX Tricks in Nanjing

2009-04-06T21:55:00.000-07:00

Ni Hao Bird

2009-04-06T21:36:00.000-07:00

Have a Travel: Nanjing Edition

2009-04-06T01:56:00.000-07:00

This weekend was the Tomb Sweeping Holiday. A bunch of us (Brian, Chris, Denis, Nicole and myself) all traveled to Nanjing for the weekend.

Migrant workers use the holidays to go home and spend time with family, and often carry very large loads, much like this man above. I did not pack quite as heavily. . .

We got first class tickets on the "fast" train, which was indeed fast; taking only two hours to get to Nanjing with no stops in between.

On the train, we had a little photo shoot:

Caption: Someone gave me a puppy!

Caption: Kenny G took my puppy.

Views from the 39th floor of the Sofitel Nanjing.

I found some cycling on TV.

My hotel room.

The bathtub was glorious. In one three day weekend, I took six baths.

As I sat in the bath, on one or more occasions, I had time to reflect on exactly where I was, what I was doing, and how, for the last eight months, I have been providing for myself. I felt really proud and accomplished to be able to provide myself with such nice amenities. The work has been hard, and being away from everyone and everything I know and love has also been hard, so finding ways to reward myself has been a key component of maintaining a healthy balance.

Hunan food street in Nanjing. We ate Indian, Thai, Korean, and of course McDonalds.

The pattern on a Korean pencil bag I purchased.

Everywhere I go, there is a choco-bear that needs eating.

The Nanjing Massacre Memorial. It was a Saturday. It was a holiday weekend. It was busy.

As you may or may not know, the city of Nanjing was the site of a terrible massacre during the Japanese invasion of China. In only a few weeks, over 300,000 people were murdered in horrendous ways.

The city now has a wonderful memorial museum and park, in the likes of the Holocaust museum in D.C. It was a strange experience going through the museum. There were tons of people and lots of small children on field-trips. There were some undertones of propaganda throughout, and the pressure to raise the nationalist spirit in the face of this tragedy was apparent. Being a sociologist, I found analyzing the context of the museum and its attendants slightly more interesting than the museum itself, and it shed a lot of light on the multiple layers that exist within every social arena.

The most notable part of the museum was where some skeletal remains had been exhumed and examined. I must admit that my interest in forensic anthropology comes from a TV show (Bones), but it was pretty cool to see the way the field is actually used.

By the end of the museum, we were all pretty much ready to leave and move on to happier endeavors.

Such as: the bird and pet market

This bird was trained to say "Ni Hao". I have a video. I will try to find a way to post it.

These are not pets. They are fruits.

These are pets. They are puppies.

Look at that face!

That was the puppy that Kenny G took from me. You would be sad too.

being a holiday weekend, the crowds were all over the city. Here they are roaming around the pet market. We all kept asking ourselves when they were going to leave to sweep the tombs . . .

The two pictures above were taken within a five minute walk of each other. This is the incredible nature of rapidly developing China.

Our second day was spent in a huge, and I mean gigantic, park that is right outside of the city. We happened to be in the city during the time of the plum and cherry blossoms, which were incredible to see.

The Ming Tomb Tablet.

The cherry blossom petals were all over the place. When the wind picked up, it looked like it was snowing.

We took the chair lift up to the top of the mountain in the park. It was a really long chair lift, taking about 30 minutes to get to the top, with a half-way stop in the middle.

Then, we went to the lake that was also part of the same park.

And the city wall that surrounded one side of the lake. It was a lot like the city wall in Xi'an, only the weather was a lot nicer!

This woman did not choose the pest footwear . . .

Nanjing from the City Wall
I found a dog with the same color hair as me! I wanted to take it home sooo badly.

Under a plum blossom tree

We took the train back on monday, after a lazy morning at Starbucks. We were rushing to make it on the train, but I had to stop to take a picture of the crowds. It really was quite impressive.

I really enjoyed my time in Nanjing, and I enjoyed spending time with friends who will not be returning next year. I had a lot of time to think about the reality of my life here in China. I truly approciate the life I am living and I think I will have a hard time letting it go when that time finally comes. Good thing it won't be for another year!

Zaijian!

Shanghai Weekend

2009-03-29T07:00:00.000-07:00

I wanted to take some time to walk you through a "typical" weekend here in Shanghai. I put quotations around typical because every weekend is actually very unique, but that goes without saying in a city this large.

Our weekend actually started on Thursday with a trip to cheap and delicious Food Puzzle. The corn was cheap but not so delicious, so I made some art:

And then proceeded to take too many photos of everyone, with their permission or not:

Denis feeling guilty after scarfing down a plate of seafood pasta. The face really does say it all.

This is authentic laughter.

Friday: Arduous Meeting and Classical Concert

Friday night was the last performance for a renowned cellist/pianist duo. The concert was at the Shanghai Oriental Arts Center, which was absolutely breathtaking. My pictures really do not do it justice. I whole-heatedly look forward to going to another show there.

We got 80 kuai tickets, and thought that we were going to be in some sad dark corner somewhere. But because it is a theatre in the round concept, we were behind the performers, which turned out to be an interesting vantage point. There was no English program, so we had a hard time knowning what exaclty was being layed, but we all agreed that the first piece in the second half was the best. I am sure you know exactly which piece of classical music I am referring to . . .

After the concert, because of some poor planning and directional confusion on my part (resulting, finally, in an inability to nourish out rain-soaked bodies with food), we were starving.

In times of hardship, it always seems to be KFC to the rescue.

Nicole spilt her egg tart on the poor Colonel's face. And I bet he never even knew what an egg tart was . . . poor guy.

I am sure you can think of your own description for this unfortunate accident.

Saturday: Big breakfast, 8k registration, Failed train tickets, aimless meandering, and a Chinese indie film.

Saturyday, we got an early start (10am) and headed out to have breakfast at Element Fresh and register for the 8k race coming up in April. After that, it was a long trek to the Shanghai Railway Station to attempt to get tickets for this weekend's travel to Nanjing.

We were excited to get seats . . .

But not excited when they wouldn't sell us tickets. Apparently, there is limited forward planning when it comes to ticket buying here in China, and we cannot buy tickets for Nanjing until three days before our departure. Lets just say, that is cutting it a little too close for comfort!

After that failed attempt, I had another failed attempt to find an art gallery, got a little hopped up on caffiene, met up with Jess and Devon to celebrate Jess' birthday with an hour foot massage, and then headed out again for some more aimless wandering . . .

The aimless wandering finally landed me in North Shanghai (the bane of Shanghai existence) for a random Chinese indie film sceening at the "diviest" bar I have been to in th city. The crowd was almost toally Chinese, and there was a suprisingly high proportion of women. I am hoping to write a more intellectual piece on the themes of the movie later this week. If its decent, I will post it here.

These are some of the scenes of the area around the bar:

A Shanghai pup that agreed to stop and pose . . .

The crowd:

The bar:

Sunday: Wake up, Nap, French Concession walk, GRE study

Today was a more or less lazy sunday that ended up becoming more productive as the day went on. I did not offically get up from a prone posiiton until 12pm. I hurridly got ready, headed to the office to do some prep and organization work for this week, and then headed out with Chris on a walk through the French concession with the end goal being cozying up in a cafe and doing some serious GRE study.

Mission accomplished.

Somewhere in there, we took the time to do a little photo shoot in front of one of the oddest statues in the city. I will let the pictures speak for themselves.

My GRE study is going really well. Everyday I learn a whole barrage of vocabulary words and learn a few more sections of the math. No matter how I end up doing, I know that the work I am going now will certianly result in a higher score. Thats all that matters, I suppose.

I am off to bed now. Early, I know. But, I wake up at 5:45 every morning to go run a couple miles on the track before work in preparation for the 8k.

Zaijian!

Shanghai Squalor

2009-03-22T01:28:00.000-07:00

We Are World Famous

2009-03-21T18:29:00.001-07:00

Happy Anniversary

2009-03-21T18:28:00.000-07:00

To Denis and Nicole. 4 years . . .

I celebrated by filling myself silly with sushi and getting an hour massage.

Thanks for being happily married, Denis and Nicole, and giving me a reason to celebrate.

In the Neighborhood

2009-03-19T17:19:00.000-07:00

Shanghai Sharks

2009-03-19T16:36:00.000-07:00

On Wednesday night, we (Denis, Nicole, Brian, and myself) set out to fulfilling one of Denis' Shanghai dreams . . .

No, it wasn't eating at Yoshinoya.

Although it was delicious . . .

Denis' dream was to see The Sharks, Shanghai's minor (really really minor) league basketball team.

We decided that the "stadium" was a little more like a high school gym with a really good basketball program.

The process of getting tickets for the game was one of those "only in China" experiences. There were ticket scalpers hanging around the stadium like bees around a hive. We were accosted by more than a dozen, all attempting to sell us ridiculously over-priced tickets. There were some interesting aspects of their sale strategy:

More than four would surround us. Okay, I know this sounds normal, but it's the next part that is bizarre. One scalper would start at something like 120 kuai. Very quickly he would talk himself down to 100 and then 80 and then 70. Another one would approach, and offer his ticket at 120 kuai. No attempt to beat the other guy. Same product, higher price.

One at 120, one at 70. Oh, how will I ever make a decision?!

We set out to find the "offical" vendor of tickets, and found the ticketmaster box. Yes, there was a ticketmaster box. Even as we were buying tickets from the box, the scalpers were still putting in thier hardest sale. Even as we were walking away with our four offical tickets . . . still . . .

The other half of the hilarity for the evening was the game itself. Essentially the teams were composed of a bunch of men of Asian desecnt (makes sense) with a few men of African descent (also makes sense, but seems a little out of context given the circumstances).

The quality of the game playing wasn't that high. In fact, I saw some of the sloppiest, most inane plays. The highlight being that one guy actually slapped another guy in the face and stole the ball. The refs called him on it and then he had this look like, "Ah, man, I can't believe I got called for slapping!"

Overall, the night was a great laugh. I could see myself going again next season.

Charity Fair

2009-03-12T06:39:00.001-07:00

Once a semester this strange thing happens. We go to our late afternoon classes to teach, only to find that all of the kids have mysteriously disappeared. No kids in the hall. No kids in the classroom. If we are lucky, we might see a lone student scurrying about.

"Where is everyone?" we ask.

"Charity Fair," they reply, and scurry on their way; perhaps carrying a box of brownies, perhaps some pirated DVDs.

Of course, we think, Charity Fair. No reason to tell us foreign teachers about that. Or about anything for that matter.

The Charity Fair is a way to raise money for various charities (as the name so adequately implies). For the past two years, the Charity Fair has raised money for the victims of the earthquake that occured in southern China last spring. The kids get pretty creative, and because they get to miss class all afternon and fill themselves silly with sugar, they get pretty exctied as well.

One booth allowed students to smash platefuls of condiments on fellow students for the price of 5 yuan. That booth, and the students running it, smelled pretty awful by the end of the day!

Another booth was a slave auction. There really is no cultural relative or sensitivy on an issue such as slavery, so there is not much use being offended or trying to force them to understand. The student in the picture is one of my tenth graders.

"So, if I buy you as my slave, you will do anything I demand?"

"Yeah."

"Even your homework?" The whole booth laughed.

Something a little less intense:
The girl on the right is another one of my 10th graders.

And here is a botth selling pirated DVDs. I think the market is already a little flooded.

And here is something reminesent of a good old bake sale. Nicole and I did some damage.

My former student who moved up to Nicole's class. His name is Scrubs. No joke.

It was a fun, kind of cracked-out, afternoon.

A Moldy Situation

2009-03-12T06:29:00.001-07:00

One day, when I was making my bed with an intensity yet unknown to mainland China, I came upon this:

I tried to ignore it, mostly because I had no adequate cleaning supplies to take care of a mold infestation of that magnitude. It was easy enough to forget, and I went about my business for another week or two.

Then, I started having really strange dreams. Really, really strange. And, I could remember every detail. On top of that, I started getting sick. Really, really sick. Coughing up things that looked like they came from the set of Aliens III. I had no idea what was going on.

And then it dawned on me. The Mold! I knew I had to do something about. It was infesting my brain and my lungs. It had spread to the proportions as seen above. On a trip to Carrefore, I got cleaner with bleach and gave it hell when I got home.

I am glad to say that all of the mold is gone and I am sleeping a little more soundly.

Now, on to the monolithic soap scum in my bathroom . . .

Tour of My Apartment

2009-03-12T06:07:00.000-07:00

Ever since I decided that I would be spending another year here, I have gone all out on making my living space exactly what I want it to be. I thought it would be nice to take all of you virtual viewers on a little tour of my space.

This is the hallway to my apartment. It's glamorous, I know. I put the chair out there to make it easier to put my shoes on in the morning. I have an official "no shoe" apartment. I decided that one day after I saw a person peeing on the street, some dog poop, and a nice dollop of spit within a five yard distance. No need to drag that into the apartment, I thought.

This is my living room, as you enter through the front door. It took about five tries until I finally rested on this configuration.

This is my desk, to the right as you walk in the door.

From the other side of the living room:

Art work
My scroll, lighting, bookcase instillation. A good use of dead space, or so I think.

My hallway/closet/bedroom. What my apartment lacks in space it makes up for in charm.

My "kitchen", the last door at the very end of the "hallway" right next to my "bedroom".

My bed. Happy, happy Ikea bedding.

The sink in my bathroom. I just liked this picture.

My (very) newly renovated bathroom. By renovated I mean I got one more lamp and a shelf for my girly supplies. It's the little things.

I hope you liked Cribs: Laoshi Edition. I will update on any significant improvements yet to come!

Rotting Bananas

2009-03-12T05:43:00.000-07:00

I have been feeling really good about teaching lately. Managing a classroom for an hour at a time is finally coming more naturally, and I feel that I am able to cater to the needs of multiple students in one lesson plan. This progression has made me happier and because I am happy and energetic, my kids are generally more excited to be in class and learning. We laugh a lot more and I see a lot more smiles in the sea of faces forced to listen to me.

All of the teachers in our office have variations in teaching philosophy. We all stress a little something different. We find some methods more valid than others and rely on methods that others would never dream of introducing to their classroom.However, there is one consistent commonality; get students to connect with intellectually stimulating material in a way that will alter them in a significant way.

I have realized that laughter is an important part of my teaching philosophy, and a goal I set for every single class I enter. I want my students to learn, of course, but I also want to get a good hearty laugh from the whole class at least once everyday.

To accomplish this new teaching standard, I have opened up the first few and last few minutes of class for story telling, random YoutTube video showing, and friendly banter between the students and myself. This morning was a perfect result of the hilarity that can arise when friendly banter opens up between my non-native English students and their teacher.

Somehow the question of my hair color came up. My hair has always been pretty unique and full of natural highlights. At times it has been a full out blond. Sometimes a few strawberries manage to sneak in. Lately, however, it has become significantly darker than it ever was in the past. I think it might have something to do with the fact that I haven’t honestly seen the sun in at least two months, not to mention the consistently thick cloud of city smog my hair is forced to reckon with each day I step outside. Add to that the diamond hard water that comes out of my showerhead, and you've got the perfect storm for darkening hair.

One student began with the simple question, “Ms.C, what color is your hair?” To which I replied, “Why is that a question? You are the one looking at it.”

Then another student chimed in and said, “Well, its not blond.”

“No, its not blond,” I replied matter-of-factly.

“And its not dark brown,” another said.

“Not yet,” I agreed.

Then, a new voice chimed in, as excited as if he has finally discovered the next biggest prime number:

“Ms.C! I know! I know what color your hair looks like.”

“Oh, really, Jin? What color?” I inquired.

“Old bananas!”

I was shocked, but my shock soon turned into a contagious laughter that spread throughout the classroom. I laughed because it was so true. It was such a vivid description, and not one that a Native speaker would have been able to think of due to the routinization of language at a fluent level.

“So, what you are trying to say, Jin, is that my hair looks like a rotting banana?”

“Yeah. Because some parts are light, but some parts are dark. Just like an old banana.”

Point well taken.

These are the moments that light up my day, and the moments when my time here in China makes some sort of cosmological sense.

Day Eight: Tongli Water Town

2009-01-27T04:59:00.001-08:00

Day Seven: Jing'An Temple and Acrobatics

2009-01-26T06:52:00.000-08:00

Day Six: Brunch at Sasha's, Old Town, Xintiandi, and Chinese New Year's Eve

2009-01-25T06:49:00.000-08:00

Day Five: Shanghai Museum and Shanghai World Financial Center (Tower)

2009-01-24T03:26:00.000-08:00

Day Four: Lazy Day, Ikea, Papa Johns

2009-01-24T03:23:00.001-08:00

Day Three: People's Square, Art Museums, XinTiandi, The Bund

2009-01-22T19:36:00.001-08:00

The morning began slowly, and I took some time to put together a small puzzle I bought at Super Brand Mall on our outting yesterday.

Around 12:30, we headed out and took the Metro to People's Square. It was supposed to be an overcast day, but it turned out to be absolutely gorgeous with the sun shining and highs in the mid 50s! Our first stop in People's Park was MOCA, the Modern Art Museum. The exhibit right now focuses on fifteen artist couples and their works. The introduction to the exhibit was really interesting:

After the Modern Art Museum, we headed to the People's Park Starbucks, off Nanjing Lu. It was so warm outside that we were actually able to utilize the rooftop patio! The clock tower behind was the next stop; the Shanghai Art Museum.

The exhibit at the art museum was of a very famous Chinese painter, whose name I am currently trying to remember. It was a celebration exhibit of his 90th birthday. The Shanghai Art Museum now has the largest collection of his works.

After the art museum, which was truly an impressive exhibit, we walked to Xintiandi. Xintaindi is a "lifestyle" area in Shanghai (self-proclaimed as the first one in China) that has shops and bars and restaurants. At the end is a huge mall with Dim Sum restaurants, high end shops, and a movie theater.

It is easy to forget that you are in China when you are in Shanghai because it is such a metropolitan city. However, every so often you see something like this:

These ae my two favorite buildings on Shanghai. Right near Xintaindi.

And, right near my favorite Starbucks in the city:

In front of the lake of Xintiandi:
Mom and daughter photo at the Pauliner Hofbrauhaus where we stopped to have a snack and some good beer:

Crowds at the People's Square Metro:

It's Chinese New Year! The Year of the Ox!

The lights of People's Sqaure, Nanjing Lu:

Leave it to my mom; she will find tennis anywhere, even on a huge screen in People's Square. We stopped for a while to watch as I planned our route to the Bund.

The lights of Pudong from the Bund. Although it was a very clear day, it was a little hazy at night.

We took the "Bund Sightseeing Tunnel" from Puxi to Pudong, across the Huangpu River. It was pretty cheesy, but a fun way to get to Pudong. This was just the escalator town to the tunnel. The tunnel itself was like a very slow moving metro covered in brought neon tube lights. It was a fun tourist thing to do once, but not something I expect to do again.

The Pearl Tower at night.
Our day ended with at an Italian Restuarant in the French Concession. We spent over nine hours out in the city in total, which is the longest I have ever been out and about in Shanghai. We are taking a day of rest today. Maybe Ikea a little later and then a nice place for dinner.

Thats all for now! Zaijian!

Day Two: Pudong, The Aquarium, and Super Brand Mall

2009-01-22T19:21:00.001-08:00

Day One: French Concession and Taikang Lu

2009-01-20T01:38:00.001-08:00

My dad sent my mom over with a late Christmas present for us to open together:

A fortune cookie!
I wonder what it says inside . . .
"A mother and daughter's time together is priceless." Awwwww! The fortune cookie looks great in my apartment, with it's modern-Asian style.

Here is Mom getting used to riding a bike, a must-do during a stay in China:

This is the bike she is borrowing for her stay, the Giant "City Story." Many thanks to Nicole!

Happily seated on the bus.

We ate lunch at a place I have been meaning to go to, Le Creparie in the French Concession. This was my almond, chocolate, pear, and ice cream crepe. Needless to say, it was delicious!

This was my mom's crepe. The atmosphere was fun and French. My mom could not believe she was eating French food in China.

Then, we decided to walk to Taikang Lu. On the way, we saw both old China and new China, as is depicted in this photograph:

Walking on the tree-lined streets of the French Concession.

A fish tank in one of the stores on Taikang Lu.

This picture is for Grandy:

Shanghai is a city under constant construction and expansion:

What a city skyline looks like when you have 30 million people to house:

A rest in Costa Coffee, the Italian Starbucks:

Back in the apartment, and Mom was all over CNN.com looking for inaguaration coverage.

We watched the inauguration at an American bar called Malone's. The atmosphere was really great, and everyone was very excited to see the regime leave and hope enter the Oval Office.

That's all for now. Zaijian!

Mom Arrives in China!!!!

2009-01-19T17:43:00.001-08:00

Now it really is the Motherland!! Here she is, in the Pudong Airport, after her 14 hour flight. It was sooooooooo busy. She says she had a wonderful flight and it was smooth sailing. The plane was only half full, she she was able to strech out and sleep!

Her large suitcase in my small apartment.

We did a tour of the South Station and then Xiujiahue. We counted five Noodle Girls and Seven Starbucks in that short distance!

The lights are very impressive at night.

Grand Gateway was totally decorated for Chinese New Year (CNY). These lanterns were really spectacular!

Not much time to report now because we are headed out for a day full of exploration and then a night of celebration with drunken expats as Obama is inaugurated!! Look for frequent updates!

Zaijian!

A Long Day in Shanghai

2009-01-18T06:23:00.000-08:00

Today was my first day all alone in a long, long time. My weekdays are spent in an entirely too entertaining office. My nights are usually spent with friends as we eat or curl up to a good book and a cup of coffee. Lately my weekends have been spent traveling the country with some amazing traveling companions.

It was strange to all of a sudden be alone, in silence, with no one by my side to joke with, to converse with, to exist with in a shared experience. This sudden and complete state of anonymous singularity – juxtaposed with the pulsing of a vibrant and excited city -- made me realize how much time I spend with friends made here in China, at SHSID. And, more importantly, it made me realize how lucky I am to have wonderful people around, enhancing and completing my life in China, and hopefully much more of my life to come.

This morning, nearly all of the foreign teachers left for various globe trotting adventures. Thailand. Cambodia. Yunan Province. Laos. Hong Kong. Singapore. Sweden. France. The States. This is our longest break during our ten-month contract, and most people use it to complete some Asia traveling while they are still on this side of the world.

I am doing something equally important and meaningful. My mother is coming to visit me tomorrow, for almost two weeks. This will be her first time in China. As such, I spent the day preparing to host her with my best Chinese hospitality.

It was an interesting day, however. It was one of those days where I think, “Ok, China. You are really trying to break me this time.” I continually refuse to break.

The mishaps of today began when I got on the 824 (bus) to go to Ikea. Easy enough, until I realized that I got on going the wrong way. Unfortunately, I realized this after the bus had already started moving.

This is an amateur mistake to make. In fact, the only other time this mistake was made was about four months ago, or a little over a month after we had arrived in China. Nicole knew the 824 went to Xuijiahue, but was slightly confused as to which corner to pick it up on.

We picked it up on the wrong one, but did not realize it until –all of a sudden – the bus stopped and everyone got out. Come to find, we had done a nice little loop around Baise, and then the bus went out of service. We all forfeited and got taxis instead, laughing at our own lao wai silliness. Lesson learned.

Apparently, not. I was tempted onto the 824 (at the wrong stop) while waiting for the 973 (at the right stop). The 824 passed, with bunches of empty seats. So, feeling a little lazy I hopped on. I realized my mistake seconds after the bus started moving, and realized that I had two, equally unpleasant, options.

First, look like a fool and get off at the next stop. I say look like a fool because, really, who rides the bus to go a half a block? Only silly lao wai who get confused easily and often because they live in a country with an entirely different language and writing system.

My second option was to wait for a few stops, exit with purpose, and then search for a place to pick up the 824 going the correct way.

I opted for the second, which resulted in nothing more than about twenty wasted minutes, a little more walking, and the fear that I might not get a seat when the right bus finally arrived. Crisis number one averted and I was, properly seated, on my way to Ikea.

Ikea, per usual on a Sunday afternoon, was nuts. I was a lone solider though, which makes it a lot easier. I stealthily grabbed some lunch, and then headed down to the marketplace with a purpose.

I decided this morning that I wanted to revamp my apartment. This was the third major change, and I think it follows the adage, “Third time’s a charm.” I purchased two lamps, three rugs, sheets, and a bookcase. That’s a lot for a little lady to lug around, so I played with the idea of getting a “delivery taxi” for about 60 kuai.

Usually I just ignore the constant taxi banter as you near the checkout, but today I bit the bait. I tried to get the price down, and had fun conversations with a few drivers. In the end, however, I decided to brave the regular taxi line, where I would get a ride home for only 20 kuai. Usually, when you have a lot of things, the cab driver will convince the guards at the front gate to let us drive in and to the dorm. This was my expectation.

Never, never have expectations in China.

Instead, I got kicked to the curb. Literally. The driver wouldn’t even cross the street to get to the gate. I was dropped off in front of Drunken Fish. I had to quickly unload my heavy bags, books case and rug. The driver, disgruntled for reasons beyond my comprehension, almost drove off before I got all of my things, and then he yelled at me while I struggled to close the door.

I could not carry, at one time, all of the things I bought, so I had to run two of the bags across the street, leaving the rug and the bookcase unattended on the sidewalk. I then had to run back to the other side of the street, dodging rush hour traffic, and lug the momentarily abandoned furniture before some Baise resident ended up with some classy Ikea furnishings.

It took me two trips to get all of the stuff back to my apartment. I don’t even think I can detail how terrible the bookcase building process was. It was bad. And long. And painful. And, in the end, it isn’t really even put together properly. It works though, which, in the end, is all I can really ask for, and should in fact surpass my expectations.

If that wasn’t a long enough day, I decided to make it a bit longer by going to City Shop (the import grocery store,) that was a bus ride and a walk away. I spent almost 500 kuai on food, which is much more than I have collectively spent on groceries in the past five months. I wanted to get some import foods for my mom, for comfort and in case Chinese food does not go over well with her stomach in the first few days, which is quite possible.

The cab driver on the way back from City Shop insisted on speaking to me, in Chinese of course. I think he over estimated, by quite a lot, how much Chinese I speak, and even more how much I understand. I busted out, “Wo bu ming bai ni shur shen me.” This basically means, “I don’t understand what you are saying.” After hearing him laugh, perhaps both in appreciation of my attempt and at my butchering of the language, I decided to go for gold.

What followed was pure China magic. I spit out, in no discernible or logical order, all of the words and small phrases I have learned since coming here. Some examples include:

Waitress, Check please
No way!
I love you
I do not love you
I want coffee
I don’t have
I am a teacher
I am American
There
Here
This
That

I think I thoroughly entertained him. It was a wonderful end to a long day in Shanghai. I love it when China pushes me to the point where I leave all of my inhibitions behind and start doing the things I always wish I could, but never find the courage for.

I am super excited about tomorrow, and plan on getting little sleep tonight. Look forward to posts regarding our adventures soon! It’s going to be good . . .

The Week in Review

2009-01-15T21:30:00.000-08:00

We really wore ourselves out with Monday's Shenanigans, so there is not much to report now. But, considering I have some time on my hands, I whipped something up for your blog reading pleasure.

Tuesday was a casual day in the office. A gangsta casual day for Nicole.

I got this card in a pack of cookies I bought at the convenient store on campus. The girl looks cute and innocent, but as you can see below, she is making a desperate plea against child molestation.

Only four. Honestly.

If I had pictures from Wednesday, they would be of me and everyone else in the office staring at a computer screen, correcting Chinese teacher's comments (written in English, of course) to the students/ parents. I thought I had finished on Tuesday, but no, of course not. There were some strange, convoluted (due mostly to the fact that they were in Chinese) instructions that we "missed." As such, we had to do the grading again. It was a bit mind-numbing. To make it a little more fun, we started playing "That's what she said" ( a la The Office) with the ambiguous strange, and sometimes inappropriate comments made by teachers. There is an ongoing and, as of yet, inconclusive discussion concerning whether or not to post the "That's What She Said: Student Comments Edition" list. Any input to the conversation would be greatly appreciated.

Skip to Thursday, and a trip to Pho No. 1 on Taikang Lu.

The raw meat cooks in the hot soup broth. Po No. 1 is definitely one of the best places in the city to get a big, hot, steaming bowl of Pho.

The Pho before I got my hands on it.

An obliterated and demolished bowl of Pho.

I can do some serious damage.

Tiny pot. Enough Said.
And don't forget, "A person of low taste is more interested in themselves than in me." Taikang words of wisdom.

Denis and Nicole reading at Vienna Cafe, where we waited too long to watch a screening of a terrible Cantonese movie. It turned into a giggling slumber party, as people from our school piled in an spouted off witty and ironic comments about the movie.

Digital Macro of the bottom of my water glass. Just thought it was a neat picture. I am honing my photography skills.

It is parent-teacher conference day, and I am writing this post between meetings with parents. The room we are in is ungodly cold. Only an hour and fifty minutes left, and then we are free for the day. My mom is coming in only a few days, and I am going out tonight to put together some preparations to make my kind of crappy China apartment a little bit nicer for her stay. I am trying to remember what it was like to have US standards for things, but those days are far gone. I have been almost fully assimilated, which is going to make walking around the city with my mom hilarious. The things I hardly blink an eye at now will send her into hysterics, tears, screams, or fits of revulsion, respectively. I am looking forward to being reminded of what it was like in my first days and weeks in this amazing city.

Well, that's all for now. Zaijian!

Office Shenanigans: Monday

2009-01-12T16:41:00.000-08:00

Okay, so there is painfully little to do in the office this week. Exams are done. Grades are due by 4pm today. Student comments are also due by the end of the day.

Basically, it is a test of efficiency. Very efficient, and you are done by Tuesday. Not very efficient, you are still struggling to get everything done by Friday at 4pm. Luckily for our office, we tend to be very efficient. As such, there is plenty of time for shenanigans, which I am pleased to share with you through photo narrative at this time.

Early monday morning, and Nicole still had some grading to finish:

Essays! The worst! While in China, Nicole has been perfecting her sad face. I think it is coming along quite nicely.

This is Brian, hanging on my desk. At the time, we were concocting a master plan to order some goodies from McDonalds for the office.

Josh and Brian calling McDonalds. Okay, actaully, to be honest, this is a dramatization. We literally had so much free time in the office we had time to make the plan, call and order for real, and then when I realized that I should be documenting for the blog, reinact the phone call.

Shenme?

The (digital macro) collection of Kuai for McD's delivery.

MMMMMMM. Taro pie.

The Chinese half sister of the baked apple pie, so popular in the states.

This was actually the first attempt of any of our office dwellers to eat one, so valiantly made by Denis. We had, until yesterday, been quite turned off by the color, which is a certain atomic purple.

In fact, it was delicious. Leave it to McDonald's. Looks slightly dangerous and detrimental to your health, but in fact, is deep fried and delicious (and maybe still detrimental to your health).

This is my favorite, the Pineapple Pie.

Some digital macro fun with my camera.

Nicole killing Josh who is picking Nicole's nose. All with red pens. Should I even try to explain . . . ?

Some call it stir crazy. I call it Monday afternoon shenanigans. Look forward to today's (Tuesday) report tomorrow!

Notebook Propaganda

2009-01-12T16:36:00.000-08:00

School issued office supplies come with propaganda.

Exam Hilariousness

2009-01-10T04:31:00.000-08:00

So, grading 100+ exams can be tedious, boring, and really, really painful. The only shining light of hope is the occasional hilarious comment written by students.

Some are pleas for forgiveness, and promises of better academic habits yet to come. Here is an example:

(Note the score (out of 100). Yes, better next semester, dear student. Much better)

Some notes written just to pass time after the exam is completed. Why the random equation? I simply do not know.

And some are just really, really bad (read: awesome) answers. Both answers from this example test apply, especially the second.

I am Superman!!!

This is my home

2009-01-10T04:28:00.000-08:00

Baise Lu/ Longchuan Lu. Jin Shanghai Nan Zhan.

Currently, one of my favorite places in the world.

Donuts for the Kids . . . Cream Puffs for Me

2009-01-08T05:37:00.001-08:00

It is really easy to get fat in this city. Here are merely two of the delicious ways:

1) Dunkin' Donuts. I got these for the kids as a last day of the semester/ pre-exam treat. They LOVED the donuts. Dunkin' Donuts is really new to Shanghai (the first location opened right near People's Square about a month ago), so not many of them had been able to try it yet. But, they had all heard of it.

I spread the globalized diet whenever possible. (Sorry, Spann . . . )

It's kind of hilarious when you go to the store because the workers still have yet to perfect the colloquial "Dunkin'" so it comes out, "Welcome to Dunki!"

3.5 dozen donuts.

One delicious specimen.

2) Beard Papa. For about a month I thought this was called Beer Papa (which would also be okay with me) but in fact, it is Beard Papa. The Papa specializes in Cream Puffs. That's right. Cream Puffs. He kind of reminds me of the deep sea fisherman on packages of Gorton's frozen fish sticks (link here). Good news though, no fried fishiness in the cream puffs. Only vanilla (or Green Tea) deliciousness.

Mmmmmm . . . . .

The catch is, though, that unlike in the States, it actually takes a fair amount of effort (read: burnt calories) to aquire such treats. This is especially true when you are as far south in Shanghai as we are here at SHSID. So, usually, by the end of the night (even if it includes a Dunkin' or Papa binge) it all evens out!

Zaijian!

Sometimes in China . . .

2009-01-07T19:31:00.000-08:00

you see something as cool as this: